Packing up. Chilling on the beach. Checking out at 12. Surfing 12.15 to 12.55. Quick tuna wrap. Leaving with Nelson at 13.30.
Flight delayed 1h.
Packing up. Chilling on the beach. Checking out at 12. Surfing 12.15 to 12.55. Quick tuna wrap. Leaving with Nelson at 13.30.
Flight delayed 1h.
Karin 5.3 morning session at Angulo. Leaving Santa Maria around 10.30. Vic and Marc Paré struggling at PP. All other sailing at upper Canoa. Clean head to logo peelers and offshore but very light and gusty. Some nice rides. Greek guy gets washes and equipment slaps his head pretty badly.
Surfing Leao in the afternoon.
Fillet Mignon and spare ribs at Angulo
Checking out Victor sailing in no wind at Pp left. Surfing at Mt Leao bay in the morning. 2 sessions. Long period swell finally rrived. M surfing Mt leao point in the afternoon with Cris and a couple of pro french guys. Good size, long period like 15-16s and very clean as the wind droppi g.
Angulo in the morning. Arriving at LH around 12. Victor and Maurice had a low tide morning session. Small inconsistent waves. All alone takibg sun on the beach and cooling off in the small natural pools. Not very good session in the afternoon.
Little hookipa Aireal practice conditions. Offshore wind, small waves and no crowd. 2 sessions.
Met with Chris and Maria from two years back on the usual spot. 🤙🏼
After a chat we continue over the hill. Crazy light wind and set waves signifcantly bigger today makes the launch at secret a little tricky. Waiting for the wind to pick up a few knots before heading out.
The wind direction and the waves are not that different to Punta Preta actually but with a chance to get back out if you screw up. Just try to avoid getting washed on the shallow urchin reef.
Dropping in late on the first decent sized wave. Turns out a bit too late and a classic screw up ending up on the shallow urchin reef.
Luckily a gust of wind got me back out again without any major mishaps 😇.
Stopped for a swim on the way back.
Life is not defined by the number of breaths you
take but by the number of moments that take your breath away