lördag 4 januari 2025

Day 8

Met with Chris and Maria from two years back on the usual spot. 🤙🏼

After a chat we continue over the hill. Crazy light wind and set waves signifcantly bigger today makes the launch at secret a little tricky. Waiting for the wind to pick up a few knots before heading out.

The wind direction and the waves are not that different to Punta Preta actually but with a chance to get back out if you screw up. Just try to avoid getting washed on the shallow urchin reef.

Dropping in late on the first decent sized wave. Turns out a bit too late and a classic screw up ending up on the shallow urchin reef.

Luckily a gust of wind got me back out again without any major mishaps 😇.

Stopped for a swim on the way back.




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Life is not defined by the number of breaths you
take but by the number of moments that take your breath away