onsdag 13 mars 2024

Day 11

 Wake up call at 06.10. Quick bowl of cereals in the first light. In the water just before 07:00. Smaller than yesterday and shorter perion (14s agaist 17s yesterday evening). Still big enough to get a ponding. Stood up twice but didnt manage to go left fast enough for a rideđŸ«€. The rising tide rapidly made the waves break too close to the rocks but really nice morning session with only five more guys on the line up.


Back at the aprtment around 8. After breakfast and a cappuchino on the beach, we head for Monte LeaĂ”. Some surf school activity going on so we wait for the tid to drop and the people to leave and we have the waves all for ourselves.

When we switch boards Karin shows that she rides the Love Child as easy as anything in the waist high, long standing waves.

In the evening we try out budha Beach. A tad more expensive but ok chicke wok.

At 10 we both drop dead.




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Life is not defined by the number of breaths you
take but by the number of moments that take your breath away