söndag 17 mars 2024

Day 13

 Ponta Preta is on đŸ”„. Huge sets and fairly flat in between makes for a relatively easy launch from the beach. High tide, 5.0m2. Victor Fernandez and like five other guys on the line-up togethee with two kiters makes it pretty much a pick and take. Extremely hard to catch the monsters though. So light, so offshore, so fast swell. The bigger sets are rather intimidting and the smaller ones are breaking right up onto the rocks.

Stoked to be out there with Fernandez smiling and doing thumbs up at you.

Got one small wave in the beginning just speeding down the line. A couple of nice turns the last wave took mo all the way in and finally thrown my gear up on the beach.



Ola Helenius showed up with his wife and his 800mm lens. A bit to late for any real action though as the wind turned even more offshore.

I got a tip from Victor to unhook and do 2 or 3 pumps and then open up the sail once you are on the wave. 

Karin orders two omelettes while I rig down and we drive north to Monte LeaĂ” for a final surf session of this trip.

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Life is not defined by the number of breaths you
take but by the number of moments that take your breath away