tisdag 15 november 2011

Maui 2011, day 23

Up at 7.30. Lovely morning. Completely calm and not a cloud in sight. Today we had decided to go early to the south shore to surf the whole day. We packed the car with SUP, surfboard and boogie boards and arrived at Lahinopoko Beach Park at 10AM. Two minutes later both kids were out on the water - Lukas on the surfboard and Rasmus on the SUP. Meanwhile Karin and I got established in the shade of some trees on the beach.

Rasmus was on the SUP for the first time yesterday, at Kanaha. Today he caught his first wave. Guess if he was stoked. Lukas managed to get a couple of waves on his own but he still prefers to have me help him with a little push at take off. Both of them had so many waves we lost track after fifteen minutes. Me and Karin got perhaps 5 minutes each out there during the whole day while the boys were out from 10AM to 4PM with only a few short breaks.

Those of you who have seen the movie "Surf's up" might remember a scene where Big Z turns around on his board on a big wave to bow and thank the lords. Well, Lukas remebered this too - and decided to try the same stunt. He tried - and pulled it off - three times!

Rasmus started paddling in knee-position but go up on his feet and after a while he was paddling out through the thigh-high surf standing up like it was the most naturaal thing.

I was out helping Lukas for the most part of the day, walking around on the reef with my neoprene shoes. First time we were here I managed to step on a sea-urchin. I know now that there are at least two of them out there because in the afternoon I managed to step on the second one and got a single spike, thick as a match, penetrating through my shoe and into my right foot. I managed to get rid of the part sticking out but there is still a piece left inside and it HURTS!! The urchins here must have a very strong poison.

When we got home - after a pizza at PizzaHut in Lahaina - our land-lady gave me some stuff to put in the wound but I have'nt felt much of a difference so far, and the little devil is still stuck in my foot. The only consolation is that my new ear-phones arrived today - the ones with active noise-cancelling - and they actually work great!! I tried them with our noisy air-conditioner on and the noise just disappears. I am almost looking forward to the flight home...or not:-)

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Life is not defined by the number of breaths you
take but by the number of moments that take your breath away